Against the Traffic: The Road From SAN QUIRICO D’ORCIA To PIENZA


Both San Quirico and Pienza are magical, ancient Tuscan towns that merit comment and will be the subject of future articles. Today, however, we will visit the extraordinarily exciting road that connects these two towns and strums the true sounds of Tuscany. For years I have driven the 6.25 miles of this amazing highway and never tire of it.

SP146 / Strada Provinciale di Chianciano ribbons through the Tuscan countryside and is the stuff that Lamborghini and Ferrari must have had in mind. Go as the sun rises or as the sun is stretching its long shadows from the west. Any time of year will reveal the many facets of this magnificent countryside. There is one lane in each direction with multiple winding curves that provide a bonanza of sight lines. At a decent speed the entire ride is about 15 minutes. Downshifting into one of the many hairpins is just plain awesome!

MAJOR RULE: DON’T FORGET YOUR TRIPOD! (Say that at least three times). I know it is a pain schlepping it across the world, but you won’t regret it. Your images will be infinitely better. Also, be prepared for some atmospheric challenges. This part of Tuscany is rural and agricultural. You may  find some dust kicked up from the tractors and such. That can be also be great news for your shots, as the combination of light and dust can produce wonderful results. Be ready to clean your lenses regularly while out in the field. If you are carrying a backup camera body, I suggest you select your two favorite lenses, one for each body, and refrain from removing your lenses from their bodies while the dust is swirling. Or, you can always retreat to the car.

For a little extra delight, as you approach Pienza, look to your left for a sign to Santa Anna Comprena. This back road will take you to the 15th Century Monastery where Director Anthony Minghella shot many scenes from his movie The English Patient starring Juliette Binoche and Ralph Fienes. The setting is both serene and haunting. It has been turned into a B&B and you will be able to shoot inside the church, both memorable and challenging.

Happy Shooting!

You can see more of my images from Tuscany at www.richsmuklerphoto.com