Against the Traffic: ROCCA D’ORCIA AND CASTIGLIONE D’ORCIA, ITALY

Getting ready for your morning shoot in Italy is similar to many of the “outback” locations you are likely to stumble upon. Get ready the night before and expect no backup once you are on the road. You are highly unlikely to find a camera store that has anything that you might need. Fugedaboudit! Have a couple backup batteries, plenty of memory cards, your backup camera body and any lens you think you might be using. I love to use my monopod as a walking cane, but your tripod is indispensable! Remember to bring your plug adapter when you travel to Italy. European electricity, as in the rest of Europe, comes out of the wall at 220 Volts and alternating at 50 cycles, whereas in the United States, 110 volts at 60 cycles per second. Most hotels and B&Bs will have adapters, but DON’T TAKE A CHANCE. Charge your batteries the night before, erase and format your memory cards so you don’t fumble when you come upon your first good shot of the morning. Clean your camera and lenses from your prior day’s shoot and double check that your settings are exactly where you think you want them to be.

A couple of other thoughts before we start our climb: good walking shoes or boots, have a nice breakfast (food and bathrooms might be a bit tricky to find, so throw some snacks, maps, water and toilet paper in your bag, just to name a few of the more obvious items). I know you are getting impatient, but run through your personal workflow (memory card management, preferred settings, etc.), and NOW (pshew!) let’s get going!!

Traveling down from Bagno Vignoni, you are only a few minutes from your ascent to the twin towns of Rocca d’Orcia and Castiglione d’Orcia. Once you are there, you might as well take them both in. They are remarkable!

Rocca D’Orcia  stands guard over the Via Francigena, the pilgrim’s road leading from France to Rome.  From its almost impregnable position, the local rulers had a safe spot from which to control the territory. This area was first documented back in 853 AC. and has a fascinating and complex historical significance. Your challenge as a photographer might be to capture this journey into the past.

To provide a thumbnail historical sketch: In the mid-12th century, Tentennano (as it was known) was in the possession of the Tignosi feudal family, who in 1207 granted a new statute called “Charta libertatis” to the local population. It set forth numerous rights, an act of fundamental importance to Italian medieval history both for its content and style. The Fortress passes through several families over the years and was last used for military purposes in the middle of the 16th century which saw the city-state of Siena annexed to Florence. The defensive system of Rocca D’Orcia with its Rocca of Tentennano consists of a series of walled enclosures designed to benefit from the ruggedness of the environment. From the entrance gate you can see the ruins of another gate which opens onto a second walled circuit. The architecture of the tower provides interesting photographic challenges. Just before entering the tower, there are arch openings and a limestone wall face of which the whole fortress is built. A majestic view of the Orcia Valley, the Amiata Mountains and the surrounding countryside can be seen.

Don’t miss visiting the Village of Rocca D’Orcia which has maintained its original medieval architecture. You’ll find a charming square with a central cistern, religious buildings and a small, yet interesting country culture museum. The village is quiet and haunting. Out of dumb luck I saw the same gentleman in this tiny town square each of the two times I visited – five years apart. Not too much seems to be going on. This is a village where people live their lives quietly. There are very few tourists, except those who may wander down from the castle. I noticed a sign for a restaurant, but unfortunately it was not open on each of my visits to the town. Don’t expect to find a McDonalds!

The defense systems of the fortress were closely integrated with the Village of Rocca d’Orcia that lies below.  The walls of the town contained the entrance courtyard of the fortress, and an ancient door is still visible, though only partially, in the village today. This charming medieval village is just a few minutes walk away from its neighbor Castiglione D’Orcia. It seems larger than Rocca D’Orcia and more vibrant in the sense that people are more visible, some shops were available, and overall, a greater vibe than what you find of its’ more quiet neighbor. The architecture is similar and replete with magnificent photo opportunities, both of the valleys below and the ancient-walled architecture. To visit both Rocca d’Orcia and the Rocca di Tentennano, it is best to park in the area that lies at the foot of the steep slope leading up to the Fortress.  A picturesque walk along the cypress-lined hill leads to the main entrance. From there, you can stroll into the village.

Happy Shooting!

You can see some of my Tuscan images on my website at http://richsmuklerphoto.com

Against the Traffic: BAGNO VIGNONI, ITALY

Every photographer has their own rhythm, their own beat. It’s the way you prepare for your shoot, the ritual you run through readying your mind, your equipment, everything you do to assist in a successful outing.

 I for one enjoy the quiet of my mind and draw within when I get out there with my camera. Some, I know, prefer the companionship of comrades as opposed to the solitude that I so much enjoy.

 When traveling to new countries or locations for the first time, it is only natural to seek out the most traveled or noteworthy sites. As an example, your first time to Italy will most likely draw you to Rome, Venice or Florence. They are wonderful and have infinite photographic possibilities. But this series of articles will explore some of the lesser known locations that I found along the way. They are remarkable photographic opportunities.

 BAGNO VIGNONI is an ancient village in the heart of Tuscany situated in the Val d’Orcia National Park. I was first introduced to it years ago when studying at TPW (Toscana Photographic Workshop) as it had become a favorite evening hangout for many of the students.

 Thanks to the Via Francigena (which was the main route followed by pilgrims in antiquity who went to Rome), … thermal waters were found and have been used since Roman times. At the heart of the village is the “Square of sources“, namely a rectangular tank, of 16th-century origin, which contains the original source of water that comes from the underground aquifer of volcanic origins. Since the Etruscans and Romans – as evidenced by the numerous archaeological finds – the spa of Bagno Vignoni was attended by eminent personalities such as Pope Pius II, Santa Caterina da Siena, Lorenzo the Magnificent and many other artists who had elected the village as main holiday resort. … Bagno Vignoni, … despite numerous incidents of war, devastation and fires that involved the Val d’Orcia in the Middle Ages, remains essentially unchanged. … From Bagno Vignoni, you can easily reach the historical centers of nearby Pienza and Montalcino, and the general Val d’Orcia area, including the Park of Mount Amiata. (Wikepedia)

 The village provides exceptional photographic challenges. By day, this sleepy village hosts wonderful hillside and mountain views of the valley below. You are also treated to a haunting scene of Rocca d’Orcia (subject of my next post). The thermal waters course through the hills and carve fascinating archeological dig-like opportunities. A small park with children, the occasional hardy biker, folks staying at the nearby hotels and spas, dipping their feet in the waters, are all click-worthy. But at night, it all begins to happen! The holiday-like lights throughout the village take over from the long Tuscan setting of the sun. The Square of Sources captures the reflections from the surrounding shops and restaurants. Its’ glow is magical and tempts your skills for night shooting.

 Hotels, spas and B&B’s sprinkle the area. With a little luck, you can find one just outside of town, down by the rolling Tuscan Hills. I can provide some recommendations, if you are interested. The restaurants are of typical Tuscan delight and my mouth is drooling at the very thought of the incredible red wines made in these very hills.

Happy shooting!

How to reach Bagno Vignoni: From Siena, direction SS2 Isola d’ Arbia, reach San Quirico d’ Orcia, remain on the Cassia Road (SS2) direction Rome, only 5 Kms.

 You can see some of my shots from Tuscany at www.richsmuklerphoto.com